Didn't I say that stripes look neat? I bought 6m of nice black striped fabric two weeks ago.

After some tossing and turning it has been decided - white underskirt, striped overskirt and two bodices (one with high collar and one without ;) )

DONE
TV 362 1884 striped wash overskirt. I cut the apron so the stripes meet in the front (which they DO *yay*), and added lining since the striped fabric is rather flimsy - and I had to improvise since I didn't have enough black cotton for the lining. I simply applied netting to the upper back of the skirt, success! After some hours of peaceful working and watching Back to the Future III (which contains some nice late bustle dresses and one belle epoch outfit) everything is finished save eyes.

TV 261 white underskirt, sans le pouf but with decoration. I'm using white cotton/linen fabric which is impossible to iron. Inspired by Mme. Kupferfeuer's sewing neatness I even made welt seams :) 

Remaining

TV 460 1885 striped cuirass bodice, with a bit of lace at the sleeves to complement the stripes. I've made a mock up of the cuirass bodice, status: the front looks a bit strange. But that could be the flimsy fabric's fault. Anyway: no pain, no gain I thought and started sewing the striped fabric, lined with black cotton. I found a nice description with pictures on how to cut striped fabrics. She's right - it's not possible to keep the stripes straight on all pieces - but I tried my best and I think it looks acceptable (pics to come).
The next step will be fitting (my favourite activity *eww*)

PS: Consciously deciding which size to wear is a rather strange feeling - but you have to do so when using those patterns.  When I try really hard I have a 24'' waist (stop booing already, you professional corset wearers :) ), but I'll rather stick with 26'' lest I die of hunger or asphyxiation.

After one year of frequent discussions with Mme. Kupferfeuer I am now brainwas convinced that bustles have a certain je ne sais quoi but I want to know what it is - so I made one.


As pattern I used the Mantua Maker 1880s bustle. Of _course_ I had to pick the years where the bustles were at maximum size :) This is one huge steel-eating crustacean - hence the working title: Zoidberg.

On the material list I had 2m of cotton twill, 10m of steel boning (13mm wide), 5m of lacing and black band as casing for the steel. I wanted white but did not get any and I was too impatient to search further, so the bustle reminds of a zebra from the inside. I like animals so that's not a problem with me.

Pics to come, since Zoidberg is accompanying Mme. Kupferfeuer to a historical soirée :)

Welcome, welcome - to my first victorian work in project.

I'll make a first version from linen since I have lots of it in dark red and white available. I researched a bit in the net and found an amazing white linen coat to go over a bustle. It's an original so I think I don't have to hide a carefully sewn linen outfit - they did use linen for elaborate garments after all. In any case it convinced me that I should use my linen carefully and make several pieces (overskirt, cuirass bodice, tail bodice) to get some practise, test the patterns and end up with some nice things which can be combined to different outfits. And the very first step will be to browse through Victorian Fashions to find appropriate types of embellishment.

DONE

• Underskirt: TV261 1885 Four-gore underskirt, "avec le pouf", from dark red linen (I have enough linen and it doesn't show the dirt as much as lighter colours). I applied netting == adding a layer of something tulle-like to the back. Thanks to Kupferfeuer the drapery and thus the skirt is finished - I just need to find my hooks-and-eyes-bag :)

TODO

• Overskirt: TV362 1884 Wash Overskirt, just the apron, from white linen. I was thinking of adding embroidery to the apron's hem.
• Bodice: TV462 1883 Tail Bodice, from white linen. It's a really strange sizing system but many people say it worked for them. I I'll use red accents on white fabric. The interfacing will be cotton twill, and the lining simple soft cotton. Boning has arrived.
• Bag: to do
• Head: to do

For the next version I'll take a look into a fashion book of the period to get a feeling which accessories, colours and fabrics might work. In any case I found very moderately priced heavy black cotton jacquard and now I possess 8m :) Then there are 5 meters of cream-colored velvet. And I must say, needle stripes also look very neat (made by Mme. Kupferfeuer).